Hard boiled eggs are boring. Devilled eggs are fabulous!! They are the devil indeed because you will eat more than your fair share without realising it, then everybody at the party will resent you for years to come!
The way I like my devilled eggs
Devilled eggs are easy and delicious when made well. But all too often, they suffer from overcooked yolks, too much mayo, and lumpy fillings!
This version, inspired by a Julia Child recipe, swaps most of the usual mayo for butter, creating a softer, creamier texture with better flavour (butter always wins!). A touch of mustard and hot sauce adds tang and a hum of warmth without overpowering the egg, with just a smidge of mayo.
This is the way I love my devilled eggs. Rich enough for party canapés yet light enough for a meal on the side of a salad.
See FAQ below for chatter about why butter over oil, and recipe references, including April Bloomfield’s Spotted Pig, Cafe Paci, Julia Child and Serious Eats.
Why they are really called “devilled eggs”
It is true that devilled eggs are devilishly good and they are the devil because you can’t stop eating them! But actually, devilled eggs got their name from an old culinary term for spicy or zesty foods, since the flavours added give them a little “devilish” kick. 🙂
Proof of filling creaminess:
What you need to make devilled eggs
Firstly…. eggs! The secret ingredient in today’s recipe. 😂
the Eggs
We need 12 eggs which will make 18 to 20 pieces (ie egg halves) filled generously with the filling. 12 yolks doesn’t make enough to fill 24 pieces – unless you bulk out the filling with mayonnaise or other flavourings that overwhelm the egg flavour which then kind of defeats the purpose.
Egg size – The recipe calls for “large eggs” which are eggs sold in cartons labelled as such, 600 – 660g / 24 oz for a dozen. It will work fine with extra large eggs too (700g/25oz) but if you start getting into jumbo egg territory, use the recipe scaler to dial up the filling ingredients a bit so you get the right flavour.
TIP: Boil them from fridge-cold. This keeps the yolks a little creamier as it takes a little longer to come to temperature and cook.
FOR THE FILLING AND GARNISH
And here’s what you need for the filling and garnish. Despite the hot sauce in this (I use Tabasco), they are not spicy. It’s just enough for a faint background hum. The Tabasco provides far more flavour and tang than spiciness.
- Mayonnaise – Just a touch to loosen the filling a little. Whole egg mayonnaise is recommended as it has a smoother, more rounded flavour than regular mayo (which is sweeter and sharper), though it’s not a deal killer. Kewpie will also work.
- Tabasco or other hot sauce – This mainly adds tang and flavour, I wouldn’t call these eggs spicy at all. In fact, it is surprising how much tabasco flavour comes through without the spiciness! Feel free to use another hot sauce of choice (Franks, sriracha etc). If you are unsure of quantity because of different spiciness levels, start with less and add more at the end, to taste.
- Cold butter – Some recipes use olive oil rather than butter. But honestly, butter gives a better flavour (of course!) and the texture is nicer too – soft and creamy like buttercream frosting. Also, oil makes the filling a little pastier than using butter, because I think the oil emulsifies more strongly with the yolks.
- White wine vinegar – For extra brightness. Egg yolks with butter is so rich and creamy, you need vinegar to cut through it. Substitutes: red wine vinegar (it won’t colour the filling red), champagne or sherry vinegar, or apple cider vinegar. As a last resort: Regular white vinegar but use half the amount.
- Salt – The recipe calls for a modestly heaped 1/4 teaspoon of cooking salt / kosher salt. I know that’s a weird amount, but we’re working with on a small scale with the filling so it is what it is! Other salts – If you only have table salt which is much finer, use a heaped 1/8 teaspoon. For sea salt flakes, use a level 1/2 teaspoon.
- Dijon mustard – For extra punch and flavour. Substitute with yellow mustard (American mustard) though use a little less.
- Chives and paprika – Classic garnishes for devilled eggs. I use regular paprika (aka sweet paprika) though smoked paprika is also nice.
How to make devilled eggs
My rules are simple – don’t overcook the eggs. And don’t use too much mayo!
Oh, also, a nifty trick for how to boil eggs with nicely centred yolks for the smartest looking devilled eggs on the block!
1. centred egg yolks
For devilled eggs, you want a boiled egg with a yolk that is centred within the egg white as much as possible. This not only looks attractive but if the yolk is too off-centre, the egg white wall on one or more sides can be thin and break.
The trick for centred egg yolks is to stir the water regularly as the eggs are boiling. The centrifugal force when the eggs roll and spin helps keep the yolks centre as the whites set. We tested it and it works consistently 95% of the time, whereas without it’s kind of pot-luck where the yolks end up!
How to boil eggs with centred yolks for devilled eggs
If you read the steps and wonder – why fridge cold eggs, why boil water first? Answers are over here -> How to boil eggs.
- Boil 10 minutes – Bring 12 cm / 5″ water to a boil in a large pot. Once it comes to a full boil, lower fridge cold eggs in gently using a spider or slotted spoon. Start the timer and boil for 10 minutes.⚠️ Lower heat a touch, if needed, so the eggs are not being jostled around so much they crack (but not too much, else they won’t cook!). Make sure the pot is roomy – you need the space for the swirling step.
💡We need hard boiled eggs for devilled eggs. If they are soft boiled, the whites are a little too fragile to pick up. - STIR every minute – Using the handle of a wooden spoon, stir the eggs every minute 5 or 6 times. Stir around the edge of the pot at a decent pace to get the water moving, then retract and watch the eggs swirl around in the water. This is what makes the yolks cook so they are centred.
- Sink of water – Transfer the eggs into a sink filled with cold tap water using a spider or slotted spoon. Leave for 5 minutes until cool enough to handle, then peel.
- Peeling eggs – Crack the base of the egg (weakest point) then peel under water (it’s easier).
A note on fresh eggs
Fresh eggs (ie within 2 days of being laid, which is not any store bought egg!) will not require swirling as the whites are tight enough that the yolks stay nicely centred when boiled. Ironically though, fresh eggs are harder to peel neatly. 🙂
2. Making the devilled eggs
While some recipes will just call for mashing the filling, is so much nicer if it’s fully smooth and fluffy – easy to achieve with a quick blitz.
- Remove yolks – Cut the eggs in half, marvel at how the yolk is centred (for most of them!). Scoop the yolks out with a teaspoon.
- Creamy devilled eggs filling – Put the yolks and all filling ingredients EXCEPT the butter into a small food processor. Blitz until the yolks are broken up. Add the butter then blitz until there are no butter lumps remaining, scraping down the sides as needed. The filling should be smooth (smear with back of spoon to check).💡Blitzing tool – I use a mini food processor that came with my stick blender. Handheld electric beater works too, like making frosting! Stick blender doesn’t work (gets stuck in blades). For a regular food processor or stand mixer, either use a small bowl insert or expect to scrape down the sides a fair few times. Hand method – Use softened butter, smear/mash until smooth, push through a fine sieve.
- Fill – Choose the best 18 to 20 egg white halves. Transfer the filling to a piping bag fitted with a nozzle of your choice (I use a star tip), though even no nozzle is fine too. Pipe the filling in generously in whatever pattern you choose, mounding it to around the same size of a whole yolk.💡As noted above in the ingredients sections, 12 eggs will make 18 – 20 filled halves. Eat the spare egg white halves (so healthy!), or chop them up and throw into a salad.
- Garnish – Sprinkle with paprika and chives. Then serve!
Even better the next day!
And my last pitch for devilled eggs is sheer convenience for make ahead and storage purposes. They are great today, but even better tomorrow once the filling flavours have had a chance to meld. They keep perfectly for 3 to 4 days in the fridge – possibly even 5 days (though I feel like 4 days is my limit for peeled eggs).
Make them today and take them to a party this weekend. Or think, meal prep! Make a batch and enjoy it with a big leafy salad on the side. This is what I’ve been doing all week, having made two batches in the last 48 hours alone, plus the multiple batches my brother made (who did the leg work creating this recipe). There have been a LOT of devilled eggs in my vicinity over the past week! – Nagi x
